Ranakpur Jain Temple

The Jain rituals tend to be austere, and even ceremonies organised at these temples are linked with the need to contain expenses, in splendid contrast to the exuberance of the temples themselves.

Religion has a very strong hold over the people of the region. Nor is the tradition of the gods as kinsmen merely an ancient one, for there is evidence of many of their saints as living beings who created a following for themselves through miracles and oracles. The Bhatis of Jaisalmer claim that it was decreed by Krishna that one of his followers would establish his kingdom at Trikuta hill, while Kapil Muni, one of the saints mentioned in the texts of the ancient Vedas, is believed to have worshipped at the lake at Kolayat, a pilgrimage centre close to Bikaner, with its banks bursting with temples.

Mysticism took on many forms, and included all the principal forms of Hindu worship; Shaivism, or the worship of Shiva, as well as Vaishnavism or the worship of the incarnations of Vishnu, prominent among these being Krishna and Ram. So strong were their beliefs, that the gods took on human attributes and Princess Meerabai of Chittaurgarh refused to consider her marriage because she claimed to have married an idol of Krishna in her childhood. Her mystical poetry is submerged in romantic longing for her lord, and even centuries later, remains popular.

It wasn't, however, only the gods that the people worshipped. Though they put their women behind purdah, there was a strong tradition of worship of female principles or mother goddesses, a cult common to all ancient civilisations. They thought little of bowing their heads before Saraswatl, Lakshmi and Kali, the consorts of the all-powerful trinity Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. In particular, the Shakti cult, represented by Kali, whose benign form is Parvati, with a symbiosis of cosmic energy, pervaded. Each family has its tutelary deity, a manifestation of Jagdamba or the universal mother, as represented by Devi.

It is no coincidence that the foundations for forts were cast by horoscope, and their site was usually dictated by a living saint with mystical powers. The establishment of a temple was therefore ritual, and often preceded the building of the fort itself, and sometimes outlived it too. Chittaurgarh, for example, may have been abandoned centuries ago, as was Kumbhalgarh, but there are temples within their fortifications where the bells still peal and the people gather to pray, or leave behind offerings.

There are scatterings of temples all over the state, some in groups such as at Osiyan, others more resplen-dently alone within their own fortifications. Their architecture is typically medieval with the prescribed manner of sanctum sanctorum fronted by an asembly hall and surrounded by a perambulatory. They are on a high plinth with steps leading to a portico before gaining entry to the main hall, sometimes preceded by a smaller hall. Sculptures of deities and floral arabesques are carved on the facade, and into the ceilings. In the Shekhawati region, the temple walls, and particularly their ceilings, are also painted with images from the epics.

However, when it comes to splendour in temple architecture, it is the Jain temples in Ranakpur and Mount Abu that spring to mind. Created by the Jain community that believes, otherwise, in great austerity, the marble temples are so extravagantly carved with images of deities, celestial beings, animal figures, and floral and geometric motifs, that there is literally an embarrassment of riches.