Mehandi or Heena

No wedding, or indeed auspicious occasion, is complete without the mehandi or henna women use to decorate their palms. The dark green leaf  paste leaves behind a distinct orange color when the dried pattern is washed off.

The Jains were prominent merchants and traders who served at the Rajput courts and whose influence in political matters was considerable. That this may have been because they also served as money-lenders to the kings is, of course, not inconceivable. The Jains believe in a continuous cycle of life and rebirth, and so have no supreme being to whom they pray. Instead, the Jains have 24 tirthankaras or ford makers, or more simply those who help people move from one stage of rebirth to the next: it is their images that are usually enshrined within the temples. These idols are often depicted nude, and their is a great rigidity to their body postures, which is at odds with the relaxed forms of Hindu iconography.

All over Rajasthan and the neighbouring state of Gujarat there are magnificent examples of their temple architecture (the only place where the Jains have exhibited a similar exuberance in their-residential architecture is in Jaisalmer). At both Ranakpur, and in the Dilwara complex in Mount abu, there are groups of temples: here, pillars, arches, ceilings, facades, every available space is so profusely carved that it dazzles the eye.

The only comparable Hindu shrine is one on account of spectacle rather than splendour. At Pushkar, close to Ajmer, thousands and thousands of pilgrims gather in November in a cycle that must be as old as the Jain cycle of births and rebirths. At least, no one knows just how old the Pushkar mela or fair is, but if accounts are to be believed, it is as old as mankind itself. At the heart of the fair is a temple to Brahma who was cursed that he would not be propitiated on earth. Eventually he did merit two temples for himself, of which Pushkar is extremely popular. It is a coincidence that the camel fair here occurs at the same time as the holy full moon night when it is considered auspicious to bathe in the holy pond, and then pray at the temple. For miles all around, all one can see is a vast sea of colourfully garbed people, the silhouettes of camels visible over their heads, and the trail of smoke from hundreds of campfires in a scene that is reminiscent of Biblical times.

The association of religion with commerce is particularly close in Rajasthan where most camel and cattle fairs are associated with places and dates that coincide with worship at nearby shrines. And on these occasions, faith does not come in the way of different religious communities. Not strangely, then, at the Muslim shrine at Ajmer, it is not uncommon to find Hindus come to pray at one of the most prominent sites of Muslim pilgrimage in the country.

The shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisthi has always enjoyed reknown but it was the Mughals who gave it elevated status when they chose to come here on their pilgrimages, and to seek the blessings of an heir. At the annual Urs festival, pilgrims throng to the shrine for their share of the saint's blessings and consecrated food that is cooked piping hot in giant cauldrons in the courtyard. But this is by no means the only Muslim shrine of reknown, others including one at Kota, and another at Sikar which is all of eight hundred years old.

There are popular folk heroes too who are propitiated by the people of the state, and these include Ramdeoji of Runicha (near Pokaran) who was known to heal incurable diseases; Pabuji who helped break barriers between different castes by sharing their food; Gogaji of Gogamedi (near Ganganagar) who had the power to heal snake bites; and Mehaji and his son Harbhuji who gave up their lives while protecting their village community. Not only do people come to worship at their shrines, they also remember them with affection in the form of folk ballads and performances.

A protective aspect of Shiva that is popular is as Bhaironji, and there are several shrines to this manifestation. It is here that people bring their new born infants for their first haircuts, known as jhadula. Following their haircut, the children are formally placed in the protection of the family deity. Rites such as these, it is believed, ward off misfortune, illness and enemies, and help to bring in the desired wealth, success, marital bliss, and even heirs to continue one's lineage.